How could we possibly chronicle the past 3 months, all we've seen and learned, in a single kick-off post, let alone in mere words? It has been almost 100 days to date that us 7 JV's had left for Portland, Oregon to begin our year of service. Since then, (I think I can say without fear of successful contradiction) each of us has found life on the reservation in Southeastern Montana to be far from what we used to. Hailing from all over the country – Colorado, Connecticut, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New York, Ohio, and Texas – we found ourselves a great distance from home among a landscape, lifestyle, and people foreign to us. Last year's JV's began a semi-regularly updated blog bringing family and friends a taste of their experience out here. Upon first meeting, "The Ashland" blog was a tradition we all agreed to continue. So, in a haphazard attempt to assemble a fitting "Best Of" of our time in Ashland, MT thus far, from the first bug-ridden, chocolate water day to the present, we present to you the first of many (hopefully more regular, in-depth) posts: our "Top 10" (in order of appearance).
- Alex, Anne, Haleigh, Jesse, John, Val, and Tim
1. Our First Day in Ashland
By John 
After a 24 hour Greyhound bus ride, meeting “Dan the Greyhound Man,” we arrived in Ashland at 9 AM, anxious to get in our house, but… we couldn’t. In fact, we were locked out. This was only the first in a serious of unfortunate coincidences. Once we finally did get in, we realized the kitchen was still under construction, there was one less bed than JV, and the water treatment “plant” was changing its filters (resulting in our disappointment that our faucets weren’t actually soda fountains spewing free coke). Then, being the city slickers that we all are, mistook a few harmless bugs for a tick infestation. But, our nerves were calmed when Jaime, one of our support people, told us we could eat them and Ivan, school superintendent/ landlord/ supervisor/ man’s man, laughed at us and gave us bug spray to calm our nerves. The day ended in true JVC fashion when Jaime and Amanda invited us, seven perfect strangers, to their daughter’s christening party and upon leaving gave us a box of fresh veggies, venison sausage, help fixing our bikes, and offers to go shooting and hunting. Since the first day, our water has cleared, the bugs are gone, I have a bed, and we feel that Ashland is the best JV placement in the Northwest.
2. The Crow Fair
By Haleigh
Our first major immersion into Native American tradition was Crow Fair. Dubbed the “Teepee Capital of the World,” Crow Fair draws thousands of people every year. For generations, families have camped in their same spot at the fair, as well as participated in the powwow and parades. We were lucky enough to be invited to camp with Ivan Small, the superintendent of schools, and his family. My housemates and I experienced traditional meals such as tripe, menudo and Indian tacos at the Small camp. We also celebrated mass with the family honoring a beloved nephew’s ordination. I think one of the highlights of the weekend was being woken up before sunrise to Ivan asking us if we could hear the camp crier. This weekend couldn’t have been a better way to start the year. What with rodeo, Indian tacos, fancy dancers and great company, we left feeling intrigued and excited about things to come.
3. The First Sweat
Tim
The excitement and anticipation was mounting around our first sweat lodge ceremony. We had heard of the practice and we knew, thanks to last year's JV's blog, that the sweats were a powerful way to pray and come together as well as a cornerstone of Northern Cheyenne spirituality. So, finally, the invitation came from the Robinsons, a family friendly with last year's JV's. At their suggestion, we arrived two hours early so Ernie, one of the tribe's ceremonial men (a rite he earned by fasting) could show us how the sweat ceremony is prepared. We were very grateful to the Robinsons for their hospitality, and as such, our culture dictates it imperative that we exchange something tangible in return to demonstrate this appreciation (we're still getting over this.) Ernie began explaining the history of the sweat ceremony and the beliefs behind it while we were wondering when it would be appropriate to interrupt his explanation and interject, "We bought cinnabuns!"
The sweat is intensely involved and there is a rich spiritual explanation for even the more minor details. From the teachings of Ernie and others (and even personally being able to help build a lodge) we've learned a lot about the significance of this ceremony. Normally, the sweat is constructed from willow or choke cherry limbs (about 1.5 inches in diameter) bent over each other from all directions around a foot-deep hole at the center of the lodge. The branches are tied and then covered by layers of blankets, tarps, and canvas. In front of the lodge's main door is a small mound, a sort of holy altar and symbol of Bear Butte, a holy land for the Northern Cheyenne and Sioux tribes. Beyond the mound is the fire pit. There, a roaring bonfire heats the "grandfather rocks" to a bright, orange glow. The rock carrier carefully brings the rocks into the lodge in a specific and methodical manner to pay homage to the "5 directions" (North, South, East, West, and Up) and continues to add more rocks after each round. The lodge takes on several symbols and one is the mother's womb. Accordingly, participants crawl into the sweat headfirst, making a full circle around the center pit. Then prayer is started and the sweet grass and cedar are burned. The smoke lifts the outpouring prayers up to the creator and is also used for "smudging", or blessing.
The first round of the Robinson's sweat was inexplicable – a true sensory overload. The experience was likened to the overwhelming boat tunnel scene in the Willy Wonka movie. Just try to imagine it: suddenly and without warning the doors are shut and the sweat lodge delves into pitch black. Almost instantaneously the group begins to sing native sweat songs and some begin to shake their stone-filled gourds with the rhythm. Others, monotone, are praying aloud while water is ladled onto the scalding rocks to make a dense, hot steam that fills the lodge. The temperature increase is palpable. This continues on for four rounds; each time with different songs, prayers, and heat intensity, interrupted by breaks and washings. Much of the value here comes from the prayer in community but the intense heat and songs help the individual to separate their focus from the earthly and temporal while purging the body of all negatives.
At first, many of us had an attitude of conquest – seeing how long we could go and what high temperatures we could endure. Now having been to a variety of sweats we are keen to the nuances, we are able to better hone our focus and get a sense of community out of the socializing instead of an awkward feeling of obligation. We've found the sweats restorative and invigorating.
Now, on the road to the high distinction of "sweat hoggery" (once only "sweat piglets") we've noticed each sweat has its own method and, futhermore, each host their own motivations for sweating in the first place. So - looking for a more traditional family style sweat? Maybe start where it all began. Cameos by some of the tribe's high ceremonial men … Head right up the street to the Robinsons every Sunday evening. What about a laid back (literally) sweat in a nice sizable sweat lodge, featuring some great alternative, high energy songs … How about our favorite horse trainer, Robbie, right across the street on Fridays nights? Or, if you're in the mood for something a little less traditional, with an ever-changing crowd, and a great view of the stars and moonlit ponds, try the sweat up at the Heritage Living Center Thursdays after dusk. Be on the lookout for the latest Zagat guide.
4. Camping in Custer National Forest
By Val
Holiday Springs Campsite in Custer National Forest only has two spots to pitch your tent. Luckily, the weekend we decided to camp there, they were both occupied. I say luckily because it forced us to forge our way – to find our own perfect location – to clear away the pinecones and cow pies under our tent – to build a fire pit without a shovel – to gather firewood with no ax. The night we went camping was one night that really brought us together – literally because the seven of us slept in one tent for warmth – but also because we played a three hour game of “hot-seat” over the campfire. We learned the deep philosophical implications of what it means to be a cylon, who preferred strawberry ice-cream over coffee ice-cream, and that John would choose his girlfriend over acclaimed outdoor product company “The North Face.” We’ve been back to our campsite with the Billings crew but I don’t think anything could beat that first time.
5. Shooting
By Tim
Against his better judgment, Jaime Olvera, our friend, former support person, and avid hunter, decided to invite us out shooting. Being the first time any of us had held a gun not filled with water or powered by AA batteries, high-jinks were inevitable. So, on a sunny weekend afternoon, six of us and Jaime ventured toward the shooting range which butts up against the back of the St. Labre campus. We arrived, excited, to find a few makeshift targets between two large hills, and directly in front of us, two shooting tables and the ground peppered with empty shells. Jaime loaded the three rifles (one was a 30-ought 6 or something, we proudly remember) explained the basics to us, and demonstrated with a fluid aim and fire. The whole experience was a perfect opportunity for Jaime to insert his trademark sarcastic remarks and poke fun at our beginner's gaffes. He shot the higher caliber gun first and the loud smack reverberated off the hills and stung our virgin ears. We looked at each other disapprovingly and decided we'd stuff wads of (unused) toilet paper in our ears to lessen the pain. What amateurs! Jaime only shook his head.
The two most entertaining moments, though, came about halfway through our shoot fest. When John was staring down the barrel of rifle #1, looking for a lodged bullet, Tim pulled the trigger of rifle #3 a few feet away. When the gun fired, it seemed as if John's life flashed before his eyes. He fell half to the ground while Jamie was already in stitches. A few minutes later, John was walking down the path to fix some fallen targets. Jaime fired a shot in the opposite direction. Fearing he was under enemy fire, our hero ducked to the ground in a matrix-like attempt to dodge the oncoming projectile. No, he discovered, there was not a bullet aimed at his head. We can't thank Jamie enough for taking us out but we're confident he enjoyed the experience more than anyone else.
6. The Volleyball Rivalry
By TimThe JVC: NW region's volunteer group is disproportionately female, so a community composed of four males and three females is an unrepresentative rarity. Lucky for the girls, they have the pleasure of living in an environment much like a college male's dorm room; assuredly not in the sense of cleanliness but in terms of fierce competition. The male dominance factor mixed with a community of all-around lively JV's makes for the perfect cocktail of competition. Subsequently, of course, come the gender wars (cue lightening strike sound effect.) The Ashland competition manifests itself everywhere from the racquetball court to the RISK game board and rampant wagers in between – the spoils usually come in the form of a few cans of Coca-Cola. However, The Ashland competition is its fiercest on the Volleyball court. With gender specific names (to be released in a later post, I'm sure) the guys and the girls hit the court with fierce determination. It began a few months ago when we played an intense tournament of games on the outside courts near the student dorm (though I'm not sure who won*.) Lately, we've moved our games into the grammar school gym. It's a great workout and always makes for some enjoyable taunting and all around good sportsmanship. Be on the look out for our next match coming to an ESPN near you.
*Yes I am.
7. A Day at the St. Labre Ranch
By Val
The age-old question- when going to herd cattle for the first time ever- do you wear wind pants or jeans? And, when lacking boots, are sneakers okay? These were question we actually asked before learning that at the St. Labre Ranch, anything goes. Don’t be afraid to nudge a cow with a pick-up truck or bring an ATV dangerously close to a cactus-laden ravine. Don’t hesitate jumping into a corral with 200+ cows (including aggressive bulls) equipped with only a small flag or glorified rattle paddle. Talking with Ray and Rose, our gracious hosts, you’ll learn everything from ways to sort cattle to the importance of ‘lovin the one yer with’ to the art of ranching dialogue. My favorite? “He wouldn’t know how to pour liquid out of a boot if the instructions were written on the heel.”
8. Pranking Bruce
By JesseBruce, our area director, made his first visit to Ashland during mid October. We were really excited about his coming because we had been planning a prank for his visit since our first week in Ashland.
The plan was this: During his initial visit, we would invite Bruce to attend one of our weekly “Spirituality Nights,” short spiritual and community sessions that typically consisted of centering sits and group discussion of some set of ideas or passages from a text. But for this night, we decided to kick it up a notch and add some pretty ceremonial touches we thought would weird him out. Some of the ceremony we created over the weeks preceding Bruce’s visit, but the finale, we had from the beginning: me walking out with a large bowl and knife and Anne freaking out, screaming, “NO, WE ARE NOT KILLING ANOTHER CAT!!!”
As the ceremony got under way, we discovered it was tough keeping ourselves straight faced for the duration, but we had all made a pact not to stop the ritual even if everyone lost it. The hardest part was on the “humming trust circle,” were we all were standing around Alex, who wore ceremonial garb, lightly pushed him back and forth, and hummed a constant pitch. If you’re curious, try doing it sometime. Even if you’re not kidding, it is impossible to do this activity with a straight face. While Bruce started to catch on during that section, we still managed to finish it, with Anne coming in for her finale before people completely lost it.
Though we couldn’t complete it straight faced, we thought it was a pretty good batch of community mischief. And no cats were harmed in the making of the prank.
9. The Watiki Waterpark
By Alex
Is it bad or just plain normal that one of the best nights so far has been at a water park? The YFS crew, Dorm squad, and Jenny, a woman from town, got to head into Rapid City, South Dakota over the weekend working for the American Indian Relief Council stuffing thousands of stockings for the people in the area. When we pulled up to the hotel to find out that there was a water park not only there, but connected to said edifice, we stared at it in all it’s wonder like we just stumbled upon the holy grail. So, once we got back from our buffalo steak dinner in front of Monday Night Football (Patriots vs. Bronocs) that was paid for by the AIRC, we decided to hit up the slides for the next couple hours. The general consensus was the red and blue striped was the best (complete with funnel). It is amazing how happy water can make Eastern Montana JVs.
10. The Halloween / Energy Fast Weekend
By Anne
After our first retreat – and its riveting and amusing mafia games – we knew exactly what to do for the traditional Halloween party at the Billings JVs' house. Thus, on Friday evening a detective, a medic, two mafia members (complete with a guns and a trophy hand), the town pariah, a baker, and the town hick descended upon the Billings JVs' doorstep for a night of fun with them and the Hays JVs. The following day, we thoroughly enjoyed all that comes with being in a (small) city – walking on sidewalks, way too early Christmas decorations, coffee shops, stores, and King's Hat (a wonderful and inexpensive burger and shake place).
Reentering Ashland heralded our entry into our first energy fast. We had turned off the heat and unplugged most of our appliances and lights before leaving for Billings. Energy fast proved a wonderful community bonding experience as well providing a medium for peaceful personal time (try taking a cold shower by candlelight – it really is better than it sounds!) Our evening began with talking by candlelight (would you rather…) and ended with an energetic game of Extreme Spoons.
